The Picture of Gentleman Gray

If you'll recall, a few weeks ago, I pondered the evolution of the modern gentleman. More specifically, the modern American gentleman.

It's a tricky area of discussion, sartorially speaking. Take the CBS show, How I Met Your Mother and Neil Patrick Harris's bro of a character Barney Stinson, who always, always suits up. There's even an occasional tuxedo night.

This is done in order to set him apart from the rest of the t-shirt wearing generation, but Barney Stinson - though he may enjoy his Scotch and fine haberdashery - is no gentleman. Britney Spears might even name him Womanizer.

The suit, it would seem, does not the gentleman make. Clothes do not make the man, but a man must possess style to make them more than clothes.

No, and though while I would love to return to a day and age in which everyman suited up and never left home without a hat, the truth is, these days, a gentleman of style is more sartorially complicated than coat and tie. It's about as being as effortlessly stylish in a henley and denim, as in fedora and gabardine.

There is a certain level of respect these days for the American-made tradition.

Take Made-In-America brand Rag and Bone. Started by English gentlemen Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, the designing pair began their creation with a trip to the land of high cotton, the Southern United States, to discover for themselves the tradition of of denim making:

Founded in 2002, rag & bone had one very clear vision in mind: to make clothes that they and their friends would love to wear every day. With no formal fashion training, Marcus Wainwright & David Neville set about learning how to make jeans. They believed that denim represented the history, authenticity and fundamentals of classic work wear that they would strive to reflect in their designs.

Beginning in Kentucky, rag & bone surrounded themselves with people who had been making patterns, cutting fabric and sewing their whole lives. Working with these kinds of craftsmen taught them the importance of quality, craftsman-ship and attention to detail early on.

These principles soon became the keystones of the rag & bone philosophy, the definition of what clothing can and should be. With these principles in mind, whenever possible rag & bone produces the majority of their garments in U.S. factories that still sew clothes the same way they did 50 years ago.

Which is why they partner with craftsmen and established businesses such as Martin Greenfield Tailors of Brooklyn, Norton and Sons of Saville Row, and Waterbury Button, "the oldest button manufacturer in US."

Which is why they're something of experts when it comes to a gentleman's aesthetic.

The fashion world is having something more than the normal fall and winter love affair with plaid   moment; it started with a hum as preppy went mainstream, grew with a low boom as hipsters collected the buffalo plaid woodsman look, and has all of a sudden become something you simply cannot miss; whether it's in lowly blogs such as this, in the pages of shelter mags such as Lonny, or in the pages of every fashion glossy from Nylon to Town and Country.

And, as the New York Times noted this week, the preppy plaid spread a widespread panic among moody chromophobes everywhere.

Rag & Bone's David Neville included.

“This is a gentler interpretation of plaid,” said David Neville, one of the partners behind Rag & Bone, who himself confessed to a certain aversion toward color. “Today I am wearing a combination of light gray, dark gray and black, so I guess I fit into that mold. But I can be a bit more adventurous — perhaps around the holidays. I wouldn’t wear a bold, bright plaid, but I would wear a shadow plaid. Subtle is good, you know?”

Shadow plaids. Gentle, subtle, yes, the colors allow a gentleman to remain distinguished, and un-dandified, yet the plaids add a pop, and betray him as a man of style and modernity.

“Shadow plaids are the new solids,” said Eric Jennings, the men’s fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue. “They’re ideal for men’s suiting. From far away they read as a solid color, and up close the texture and fabric come to life. And they’re the perfect background for a pop of color.”

It is worth noting that “shadow plaid,” like many men’s-wear terms, has taken on different meanings. Mr. Jennings uses it to describe understated tone-on-tone plaids, like dark brown on medium brown. Others use it to describe gray-scale plaids. Still others use it to describe the ombré plaids popular in Western shirts in which two colors gradate from one to the other.

But there is no question that plaids in plain gray, black and white combinations are the ones that have come in this season."

Chromophobia, indeed.

If a gentleman is all class and polish, what does it mean for color?

David Neville may have an aversion to color, but as a gentleman of style, he has come to recognize this as his personal style (bravery, be damned) and owns it, and up to it. I've never seen Chuck Bass turn away from a purple, or a double-breasted suit, which is a personal style he holds true to season after season, trend after trend.

As I began work on this article this morning, I had the low hum of the television in the background and as I was re-reading the Times article, what should come on but Dolce & Gabbana's ad for their cologne, "The One," as in, the One True Gentleman.

Italian brand. American spokesman. Black and white. Miles Davis in the forefront. Take a look:



Interesting isn't it, how the mere absence of color renders a concept timeless? Yet, in the end, he is still a man, and the colors of his complexion are reflected in the cognacs and coffees of the cologne.

The classic trappings of gentleman-hood, are, in fact, often without color: Scotch, cigars, leather. Cliche though they may be,are they not what you picture when you call up Humphrey Bogart to memory? Or perhaps you see him in the silver time freeze of Casablanca, as I often do.

For now, though,

“It’s a part of the Americana vibe we’ve seen,” Nick Sullivan, the fashion director of Esquire, explained...This is a little step forward to something more sophisticated, and at the same time a step back to something more normal.”

But don’t go thinking that the emergence of shadow plaid is a sign that men’s wear is headed back to the Italianate ’90s, when Prada and Gucci put entire ZIP codes into sleek gray suiting with all the warmth of a charcoal briquette. As the retro-volutionary style of the gentleman continues to grow, its adherents are ready and willing to ferret out its less obvious manifestations. Kick it up a notch? A gentleman would just as soon kick it down.

It gives me pause: is it the gentleman's distinguished duty to leave the color to the ladies - and the dandies? Is the art of gentlemanly dressing in the power of restraint, in balancing sharp sartorial style while letting the lady grace the chromatic scale? Is it the art of modern gentlemanly dressing to do so?

I wonder.

Shoe-ing in the New Year

It's a Monday. I was up late ghostbusting with a friend. I'm gonna make this short and sweet.

Every holiday event has a different aesthetic, but is always one thing: festive. Therefore, it makes sense to be prepared with both a rockin' heel and a sweet flat for each occasion. Luckily, Payless has been collaborating with some super fierce designers as of late (hello, Mr. Siriano), so you can have your shoes, and still do your Christmas shopping (for others...of course) too.

First up, this peep-toe pump by Christian Soriano for Payless is expectedly edgy and trendy, yet subtle in its form. The python print in warm coppers and reds is right in tune with the season, and the chunky heel is both sky-high and sturdy. C'est parfait.

Christian Siriano for Payless pump: $44.99

Secondly (and lastly), there's this charming ballet flat by Isabel Toledo for Payless. Metallic, therefore festive, witty in its detail, and with a clever grippy sole, this one will carry you all the way through the winter, dressing up jeans, and toning down minis. C'est parfait aussi.

Isabel Toledo for Payless flat: $34.99

Et voila. Now back to your Mondays.

Nanny Goes Shopping - A Holiday Gift Guide

You must forgive me if this turns out to be something of my own personal wish list. Hey - if I didn't love it, I wouldn't suggest it! It's a sign of love that I would recommend you to give something I love to someone you love. Or something.

First up, in the thank-my-frozen-fingertips-they-came-up-with-this category, Echo Design has come out with a line of gloves, for both men and women, with touch pads at the fingertips which allow you to use your touch-screen phone or other device whilst keeping your fingers toasty. Can I get a huzzah?

There are 13 different styles, starting at around $30.

For the literary fashionista, genius Kate Spade has come up with the Book of the Month Clutch, a series of clutches painted with most cleverly re-imagined book jackets of literary classics, such as these:

Clever, no? Each clutch can be purchased for $325 at http://www.katespade.com/, or wherever Kate Spade is sold.

And, another item for the literary fashionista, on a budget is this darling print, in Jane Mount's Ideal Book Series: Robert Verdi:

An 8x10 print of this can be purchased at http://www.20x200.com for $20, or a 14x11 for $50, or, a 20x16 for $200. These prices are uniform across the site, which is full of fabulous artists and prints. I also particularly liked this one, Lauren DiCioccio's interpretation of "Vogue March 2010: pg 230 (List of Contributors)":



Don't despair if you're not buying for a fashionista, either; there's a wide variety of artists and interests to be found on this site.

And while we're on the subject of books, an especially budget-friendly gift for a budget-loving fashionista would be the P.S. I Made This book  - the book inspired by the DIY diva's blog. If you haven't yet discovered her, she's seriously amazing. She takes high fashion looks and breaks down both the trends + easy ways, sources, tips, etc. to guide you in DIY-ing an item yourself. The book features more than twenty-five original looks and ideas based on iconic fashion pieces, such as the statement necklace.



And as I found it on Amazon for only $12.89,  a super-cute gift idea might be to buy one of the main pieces to a project, and pair it with the book.

As I consider baking and cooking something of a DIY habit, this next gift is for the cook and hostess in your life. I gave one of these Vera Bradley aprons to my mother a few years back - monogrammed, of course - for Mother's Day, and while she is of the belief that aprons are not meant to get dirty and this one is too pretty to cook in, it makes a lovely hosting apron, in any case. Especially as they've paired it into a gift set with a matching recipe tin - and at $28, you might even pair it with a favorite cookbook, or a fancy whisk. Lovely. Don't forget the monogram.

Oh, and for an extra-special touch, add a few of your own favorite, tried-and-true recipes into the recipe tin. (I especially recommend this, as I made and "illustrated" a cookbook as a wedding gift for newlywed friends and they have already offered to have me over so they can cook something for me out of the cookbook. Truly, the gift that keeps on giving).

Before we veer into the territory of seriously-long-blog-post (not that I haven't visited there many times before), I'm going to stop myself, because this Gift Guide is merely Part I in a series, where I will take you through my personal shortlist of books to give and read (don't worry, I'm qualified, I was an English major), DIY gifts, some of which I will be trying out this season, some of which I have created myself and made already, recipes, should you prefer your gifts to be edible (and why not?), and of course, more fashionista items. Also, as I'll be shopping for M&N (or creating...), there will be I'm sure a Gift Guide for Children.

Stay tuned for these posts and more - they will amaze the mind, and delight the senses.

Or something to that effect.

Happy Holidays!

Oh and p.s., one more! The World Cup was this summer - have a newly converted football fan, or a long-term rabid fan? This illustrated book of soccer chants is perfect: http://marklongillustration.co.uk/ and so cheap too - about 7 US dollars! Of course, you'd have to pay the shipping from the UK, but we couldn't make it too easy on you, now.

Every other inch a gentleman

I'd venture to say that I of the men I know, see, and meet, but a few are true gentlemen, despite the fact that so many fraternities proclaim themselves houses of "True Gentlemen." Has the gentleman - and his aesthetic - become a thing of endangerment, or worse, headed towards extinction? No, I think not, but instead like to muse that perhaps the creation of casual Friday, and casual Monday, and casual Sunday, has instead made the true gentleman stand out from his previously disguised counterparts.

Perhaps.

It's a fine line of judging a book by it's cover to say that, because of course, a gentleman can be found in any clothes, and his enemy, found in tie and coat. The men of Mad Men come to mind... But in my perfect world, a gentleman possesses style in its truest essence: not an imitation, or a uniform, but a true personal style that only a confident man can carry, dandy or not.

This is, coincidentally, the case in Lesley M. M. Blume's new book, Let's Bring Back, a collection of writings from her column of the same name on Huffington Post. Of course, her wish list includes everything from "Hats on Men" (yes, please!) to "Crudite platters," but in general it reflects items, behaviors, manners, and ways of living that should be forever classically stylish, and universally held. Style, after all, both transforms and transcends trends.

[Mother, Father - I know you're reading (you're my biggest fans) - this book is definitely on my Christmas / Birthday wish list].

What is it that makes a gentleman, though? A man of style? It seems that everywhere I look lately, somebody is offering their professional opinion (an excellent sign of optimism for this breed), so I thought I'd put together a summary of my recent readings on the subject.

If anyone can help us out, surely it's 192-year-old outfitter of gentlemen, Brooks Brothers. What's their latest take on the modern man of style? If their foray into Twitter this week is any indication, it's one who is social. I became an official follower yesterday, and thus received a DM, with instructions to follow a link this this image, which describes, in succinct style, what tweets to expect from the Brooks Brothers aesthetic:



Take this tweet, as exemplary of their expertise:

Theodore Roosevelt wore a Brooks Brothers military uniform in his famous march up San Juan
Hill. http://bit.ly/d5PWJy.

Brooks Brothers is also on Facebook, where they hold polls meant for sparking "sartorial debate," pose customer style questions to their followers, and of course, share style tips for the gentleman and gentlewoman. They're in good company too; brands such as Southern Proper and Southern Tide regularly tweet and share "American Gentleman Lessons" and the like:

Southern Tide: American Gentleman Lesson No. 69:

The American Gentleman - Lesson No. 69: A Gentleman Always Dresses to Impress

americangentleman.tumblr.com

Lesson No. 69: A Gentleman Always Dresses to Impress - “The clothes don’t make the man, but when he is made, they greatly improve his appearance.” - Henry Ward Beecher, US Congressional Minister

Let's revisit the Mad Men topic; as I wrote about a year ago, Brooks Brothers is hip with the Mad Men, recruiting costume designer Janie Bryant to create a limited-edition Mad Men suit. And as we return full circle, one, Lesley M. M. Blume, possesses in her arsenal a Mad-Men edition column, a list which includes hats for men, hats for women, and of course, the three martini lunch - noting, that in those golden days, if you worked in advertising or journalism, a four martini lunch was the minimum.

Perhaps my affinity for men of this nature can be tied back to Cary Grant in the classic newspaper film, His Girl Friday.

The newspaper man was the hard-working, hard-drinking, man's man of the intelligentsia (re-call also Brad Pitt's character in A River Runs Through It, the hardened Montana counterpart to his "softer" Dartmouth educated brother, nicknamed "the Professor"). This behavior always brings to mind male friends of mine from college - "Gentleman and Scholars," they called themselves - who used to have evenings in which they indulged in suits, Scotch, cigars, and philosophical debate. As I tend to romanticize a lot, film's such as His Girl Friday both resonate with me and develop in me a nostalgia for an age of journalism I never knew, and never will (as Mr. Smith Goes to Washington has developed a certain yearning for more filibusters). But, as my own father, and a true Southern gentleman of style raised me on the classics, it's my personal opinion that the modern gentleman will have studied style icons the likes of Cary Grant, Humphrey Bogart, and other such classic film stars.

But with shows such as Mad Men, and recent developments such as Janie Bryant being commissioned to design her own vintage-inspired line, will the growing affinity for the look - a major trend in Fall 2010 runway, as evidenced most clearly by Louis Vuitton's collection - and the nostalgia for the past bring back the behavior as well? Certainly as a culture we've moved forward in many, many positive ways, but if Blume's column and book - and their popularity - are evidence, we miss certain trappings of the lifestyle, even if - like myself - we were too young to have ever lived in such an era.

The Wall Street Journal referenced both Grant, Bogart, Clark Gable and the men of Mad Men in their article the other week on the return of the three-piece suit to menswear:

"The three-piece, a suit with a matching waistcoat (aka vest), is the most formal type of suit, long the provenance of dandies, 1930s film stars like Douglas Fairbanks Jr. and Clark Gable, and later, bankers in London and on Wall Street. It's a fussy suit, one with an extra unit, which is why it disappeared for nearly 20 years after World War II as the result of fabric rationing.

 

Ralph Lauren: Ralph Lauren Purple Label pinstripe three-piece suit.

It vanished again in the '90s, suffering the dual blows of minimalism and casual Friday (which spread into casual Everyday). But some men are dressing up again, thank goodness, and not necessarily just for the office; they're even adding flourishes like pocket squares and tie bars. The three-piece suit makes a statement, literally, of one-upmanship in the dressing-up arms race."

And in case you're looking for a more casual three piece look - and in further evidence that style encompasses more than one set look and is not, absolutely not, a uniform - have no fear, because corduroy's been making the waves again, also, often in the case of a three-piece ensemble: http://on.wsj.com/dhyLOV.

Also, Ralph Lauren

To quote the former article, "men are dressing up again, thank goodness," but why? What's going on in our culture that's prompting this resurgence, and is it occurring in Midwestern cities such as mine? And why are we, in a recessionista's economy, less concerned about fabric rationing than our World War II counterparts? As I believe that style encompasses so much more than fashion - involving an invested interest in culture, the arts, the happenings of the world, in exploring all facets of life, and an inner beauty (or in this case, perhaps handsomeness) that is reflected confidently through a personal style and aesthetic - I'll be searching for the answers to all of today's raised questions and more this winter. 

(If you're a male friend or acquaintance of mine - be ready for some questions!)



In Honor of Prince William's Engagement, a Journey through a few of Princess Diana's Best Looks

Today I was supposed to write tips for pattern mixing, I know. But then, Prince William and Kate Middleton got engaged! And girls - and grown women - all around the world sigh in disappointment. I'm pretty sure, actually, it was my 14-year-old self's ambition to grow up to be that girl. Oh well, c'est la vie.

I don't know too much about Kate Middleton, but seeing as how she's now wearing the late Princess Diana's ring, I thought we'd trip through some fashion history briefly, starting, with that famous wedding gown:

 Talk about your big wedding gown. I vaguely remember having a Princess Diana paper doll with this dress. What I can't remember is if I liked it. I very much doubt the future Princess Kate will wear a similar fashion, and long sleeves and puff shoulders are very much out of style. But one thing is for certain: this is certainly a princess's dress, and it is iconic of the princess's style.

Ah. Classic. Fishtail gown, sweetheart neckline. In this, she could've been Grace Kelly decades before, although Princess Di is no less a fashion icon than Princess Grace.

Proper in pink, hat, and pearls, that's for sure, but that's quite a hemline for a princess to be sporting! Love it. The suit and the power shoulders was one of her signatures.

All mommy cas and cute in Laura Ashley. The sheer skirt over what I assume are leggings is quite interesting. In a good way.

I. Love. This. Victorian collar + buttons + shoulders and that very jaunty cap! It's very British Isles of her. Plaid's having quite a moment right now, I could almost see this on someone today. . . in fact, I have a similar shirt, though a different plaid, elbow-length sleeves, and different buttons, but with the same collar and shoulders. Plus isn't this just a fantastic photo of her?

Poppin' her collar, royalty style. It's undeniably a great sillhouette.

It's yet to see if the world will watch Kate as closely as we did the late Diana. Perhaps if she's lucky, we won't. I believe the tiara gets heavy after awhile. But no matter, best wishes to her, and congratulations to Prince William. May their future be filled with the sort of light it's said Princess Diana brought into the world.

This is Obsession (Fall Fashion edition)

It is the 8th of November, and the high for the day is expected to be 72 degrees. Fahrenheit. In Kansas City, Missouri.

No, I never expected to write those words. But today, it's the truth, and I'm not looking a gift horse in the mouth, no sir. Ever one to rush fall and brisk weather, I'm going to step back and let winter unfold at a slower than normal pace because, well, winter lasts long enough. Snow, you were fun last winter and all, but it's alright if you don't want to make as many visits this year. I'll be alright. My down comforter might miss me, but I'll be just fine if I want to do other things than hide under its warmth all the time. And snow, we'll see each other - a sledding outing perhaps - but if you and the sub-zero temps don't want to see me as often, well, that may be for the best. We could all probably use some space.

Especially if it means a prolonged fall wardrobe. In an effort to make fun from Mondays, I've decided they'll be all fashion and style around here. Enter, my current fall fashion obsessions:

First of all, Ralph Lauren speaks autumnal Americana to me, with a collegiate touch. Tartan's having a serious moment right now (hoooooray!) and I'm obsessing over these sunglasses right now. It would not be liable to print that often I open up my copy of Elle or Vogue to the first few pages of ads just to sneak a look at these beauties. Sometimes, it's the last thing I do before bed. Clean. Classic. American.

Style.com reviewer Nicole Phelps called the Marc Jacobs 2010 Fall RTW show "a nostalgia trip, one so lovely it was quite easy to be seduced." It was "as dreamy and serene as any Jacobs show in recent memory - and how typical of him to intuit that the world is craving serenity right now." It's true, the palette never strayed from softly serene neutrals, in warm beiges, chocolates, greys, and ambers. But I saw too the high drama, albeit nostalgic, and not just for previous Jacobs collections, in silhouettes that echoed screen sirens of the 30's and 40's. High collars and shoulder accents. Leather elbow-length gloves. Fur, feathers, and fur. Here's a selection of my personal favorites from the collection, in color progression. For my own reasons, I see the progression from fall to winter being one from browns to greys and creams. Call it a pre-occupation with tweed and leather in fall, and winter white, if you must. November's warm weather is speaking of a serene winter to me.







I've particularly fallen for this look, I think, perhaps, due to the fact that I own a long grey jersey dress, which I've been planning on wearing to a benefit this coming weekend. Of course, now the plan is to do some Marc Jacobs styling of my own, by adding vintage elbow length gloves in cream (my great-grandmother's) and trying out my feather headband as a belt, for starters. I love the collar and the drape of this dress; there is nothing more comfortable to wear for a big night out than jersey, and the combination of the fabric with the length attains that perfect combination of dressed-up ease.









Jean Harlow, eat your heart out. This look hits the big fabric trends: velvet, fur, leather. Gorgeous drapery. Makes me actually want to wear velvet.



This



C'est fin! Look for some post-Gossip Girl posting tomorrow, along with two fashion videos I'm glamming out (and obsessing) over. Hint: Alber Ebaz.

"Material Culture Studies," or, Can Indeed Objects Make Us Happy? (happy new york fashion week!)

In college, I once dreamed of being an archaeologist.

No, scratch that: when I was in 6th grade and we started our unit on ancient Egypt, I secretly took my textbook home that evening and read through the entire 5 or 6 chapters the book had on the subject. Twice. Maybe more.

So in college, when being an Art minor didn't seem like it would work out, I took my Art and Architecture of Ancient Egypt class as a jumping off point (oh, and I suppose I can thank Indiana Jones for his influence too), and decided to try to move into the Archaeology minor my school offered. My first class? Material Culture Studies. The study of objects, possessions, things - and the human histories that both surrounded them, and could be derived from them.

I ultimately decided not to pursue that path, but being a clotheshorse, it's still a topic that especially interests me and the lessons I took away from this class were recently brought to my attention again by a Huffington Post, er, post entitled, "I Shop Therefore I Am: Can Objects Make Us Happy?"

As in, more than that fleeting moment of "oooh, pretty!"

For the anthropologist, objects are a connection to a culture past - a window into the way things might have used to be. They can be this to any ordinary person as well; I was fortunate enough to be left with purses, belts, and costume jewelry from both my great-grandmother and my nana. My great-grandmother's life spanned three centuries, and the collection of paste shoe clips, brooches, clip and screw-on earrings, and one long 1920's chain of (glass) pearls - it speaks to me in a way she never could, or did. Born in 1899 in a German community in Kansas, she moved to Lawrence in her 20's, and in the 20's, where she entered secretary school, and learned English. She was an independent twenty-something woman and when I carry a clutch of hers, it's a connection to the young woman she was, and to our shared experience, nearly 100 years later.

In her post, Dylan Kendall cites design critic Don Norman, who explains that: "people respond to objects based on three different aspects of the product: visceral--which refers to the initial impact the product has on us, its attractiveness and its overall aesthetic value; behavioral--which refers to the look and feel of a product, how well it serves its purpose and how easy it is to use; and reflective--which refers to how the product makes us feel, what image the product portrays and what messages it sends about us to others."

Our brain gets in on the action too, eliciting dopamine when we're faced with decisions such as, "should I give up shopping in order to save aggressively in order to live in Paris?" or "should I buy the ankle boots I've lusted after for two years now?" And it works either way we take that decision, helping us develop positive patterns and making us feel good about the choice we've made. In my case, I know how much I love clothes and fashion and style and it's something I've spent my lifetime building positive associations with; however, saving is something that recently makes me feel that really great sense of reward, even if it hasn't paid off in the big way I've planned yet.

Kendall's conclusion is: yes, objects make us feel good. But, "but in a culture in which we've pumped steroids into consumption, we should align our choices in a way that minimizes gluttony and, instead, maximizes our lifetime happiness."

My conclusion? This past weekend, I spoke with a new acquaintance about his recent residency in France, and his efforts to obtain his visa so that he can return to Paris, where he's been hired as an architect. His frustrations with American culture were clear, and many and one of his biggest complaints is the consumer culture that exists here, the need for more, more, more, and quantity over quality. I think it's an issue that everyone in America is aware of, yet still, quite often, a participant.

I pointed out that France, and Paris in particular, is a culture of style and fashion, but where we agreed, was that there, it was about quality. You may spend $250 on a sweater (or quite often more), but you have it for a lifetime. Point in case, the Louis Vuitton (aha, French label) speedy bag handed down (well, on loan) to me from my mother. Now, should she ever be willing to part with this bag permanently, I would not be surprised if it gets passed down to her granddaughter.

And when you're spending this much on clothes, you take care of them properly, but you also, ideally - and according to my friend - buy less of them. There are exceptions, obviously - celebrity culture has only helped to exacerbate, and make public this problem - but at least in my friend's experience, this is the rule in other cultures.

The feeling I love that clothes offer me? That would be style, which in turn, both produces by and is produced by confidence. Style is something quite different than quantity - it can be achieved with the smallest of touches and is yours and yours alone. This is a feeling, a way of being, and for me, something that enhances my happiness. Do I need a gazillion clothes to be stylish? Oh, at times, I may feel that way, but the truth is, there is no need for that. As I grow older, I find myself yearning for elegance and simplicity. Perhaps sometime we will see the day when I have but a few choice items in my closet - a Chanel jacket, a nude Loubitoun pump.

It's true that in a world of headache-inducing, world-spinning Forever 21's, less can often feel like a good thing. Surrounding yourself with things, things, things is something that is quite a bit less than admirable.

However, it is in our nature to collect. No, we may not take these things with us, but, it just may happen that, if their quality is there, they will be left to someone to take care of them for you. So you may as well select - or create - the things that surround you with care. As Kendall said, minimize gluttony, maximize lifetime happiness. It's not truly the object after all; it's the way it makes you feel, and the story, or stories, you enliven it with by doing just that - living.